Saturday 17 November 2012

Malaysia, Truly Asia

I haven't been able to get this jingle out of my head the whole time we've been here, "Malaysia, Truly Asia"!
Malaysia has been a highlight of southeast Asia for us so far. It is modern while still maintaining its interesting culture & history. The landscape is lush, the people are lovely and the cities remain charming despite the sweltering heat.
We started off in Georgetown (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) on the island of Penang - the food capital of Malaysia. Here we sauntered around the botanical gardens, sampled Malaysia's beloved white coffee, and rode the train up to the top of Penang Hill to take in the panoramic view and see the temples.

From Penang we drove across the Malaysian peninsula through the jungle to reach the Perhentian Island of Kecil. We found ourselves a great little bungalow on the beach and settled into the relaxed lifestyle of the locals for a few days with no tv or internet - just books and the beach. Unfortunately we were forced to leave the island when the monsoon rains headed our way and tourism was shut down for the next couple of months on the island, but we were thankful for a few sunny, quiet days here.
Preparing sand bags for the impending monsoon season
Tanah Rata in the Cameron Highlands was our third stop in Malaysia and probably our favourite - hooray for cooler weather! This area is a vegetable, fruit and tea growing haven though apparently fairly corrupt in their land-pillaging methods from what the local people told us...
We had such a great time touring farms in the countryside, visiting tea plantations, sampling fruit and enjoying afternoon tea & scones. We were very lucky to find a taxi driver one day who turned out to be a farming & tea expert and gave us some great information on both subjects.
overlooking BOH estate
Timing was in our favour as we happened to be in the area during a Chinese festival which we observed each night during our stay. It started out with some loud, high-energy pop performances, then every other night things got interesting. Beginning at the Chinese temple a few religious, young men went into a trance-like state apparently taking on the form of different spirits/saints. Everyone in attendence then paraded down to the river where the men were pierced in different areas of their bodies and walked back through the streets striking themselves with swords or spikes on a chain. Needless to say it was pretty wild to witness. After they had marched back to the temple they were brought out of their trance and the night ended. 
WARNING: I've posted a video that may be difficult to watch - even I have to look away whenever I play it! (but if you do watch it, watch in full screen)


For me, the best part about being in the Cameron Highlands were the rare Rafflesia's hiding in the jungle nearby (the world's largest flower)! Every week or so the bushmen hunt for the elusive flowers in the dense forest and bring tourists to see them during their 7-day blooming cycle. I was lucky enough to see one of the largest species of this flower on its second day in bloom.
We spent only a day in Kuala Lumpur before flying to the Philippines and a few more days when we returned. In honour of Diwali (or Deepavali) we visited the Batu Caves, a Hindu shrine in a 400 million year old limestone rock formation. We did a lot of wandering around the city and always seemed to find ourselves back at the mall in the Petronas Towers for the aircon, movie theatre and a taste of home (including a red velvet cupcake with whipped, cream cheese icing... mm). The Petronas Towers really are a spectacle, especially at night with the colourful waterworks show out front.
Our last stop in Malaysia was the town of Melaka. We really enjoyed the Indian street food here as well as the great little shops lining the streets in Chinatown. The river provided a great backdrop for some late-morning breakfasts and the entertainment complexes provided a relief from the heat with their archery studios and ice-filled drinks.
Next up, a blog post about our time in the Philippines!